The Getaway: San José, Costa Rica

The capital of Costa Rica is often overlooked in favor of its dazzling beaches, but San José is full of charm and culture to warrant a getaway. Here’s what you need to know about this Central American city, as well as the places you must visit.

This is it…we’re down to the last two months before 2024 is over. And if you’re like me, you’re looking to do one more getaway before your social calendar fills up once Thanksgiving rolls by.

Enter San José. This Central American capital is not only a short, non-stop flight from either coast (six hours from JFK or seven from LAX) but it’s also compact—and affordable—that you’ll be able to enjoy most of what it has to offer in about three nights.

Before You Go

I flew with Copa Airlines, a Panama-based company. They have the Stopover in Panama program, where passengers can stay in their city for up to seven days, so I took the additional destination. (If you prefer to go to San José directly, Spirit, JetBlue, and American offer daily flights from Miami.)

The official currency of the country is Colon (₡) and as of writing, $1 is about 530₡. As with many destinations, you get the best exchange rate by withdrawing Colones from a bank ATM (basically, do not convert if you are offered the option). Many hostels and hotels also accept dollars, but be sure to confirm ahead of time.


What to Pack

November is a transitional month for San José, when the rains finally let up to herald the dry season. However, this means that each day will be as schizophrenic as the last: Pleasant and sunny in the morning, wet and gloomy in the afternoon. Pack things that will see you through downpours but are comfortable—and stylish—enough to wear otherwise. Expect temperatures of around 75ºF while you’re in the capital.


Getting Around and Safety

There is a Claro stand at the airport (Juan Santamaria, SJO) where you can buy a sim card for your phone. Be aware that this is expensive; if you can wait until you’re in town, do so. Claro agents know some English and are used to tourists buying a sim card for their phone.

Always hail an official taxi—they are colored orange and available from sedans to vans—and are in a queue outside the arrivals hall. The rates are regulated by the state and their meters are always checked to see that they are working and not rigged.

The city of San José is quite compact, and many places of interest are a comfortable walk from the city center. Public transportation options are limited to buses—of which they are plentiful—and the taxi rojo (red). Uber is also available in San José if you’d rather not keep an eye out for the meter (or even figure out which red taxi is actually official).

San José is relatively safe in the morning, provided you take the usual precautions like not flashing wealth and dressing like you live there. If you’re going out in the evening, take taxis or Uber everywhere.


What and Where to Eat

Gallo Pinto

Gallo Pinto is a Costa Rican dish made with white rice and black beans cooked in a savory sauce called Salsa Inglesa (the most popular brand that sells it is Salsa Lizano). Its name translates to “speckled rooster” owing to the contrasting appearance that the plated dish has. It’s typically served with eggs, sausages, and vegetables, and is eaten during breakfast (although having it for lunch and dinner is not uncommon.)

If you want to make your own Gallo Pinto, check out the Feast recipe here.

Apotecario

Boasting handcrafted cocktails and dishes with ingredients sourced from local purveyors, Apotecario offers pub-food classics (think burgers and hummus) and shareables like pastas and pork ribs. They also have a menu that changes on a regular basis.

Sapore Trattoria San José

If you’re feeling like having a good Italian meal, Sapore Trattoria, close to the National Museum of Costa Rica, should be top of your list. Apart from the characteristic (maybe a little cliché) white-and-red checkerboard tables, this restaurant offers Mediterranean favorites at approachable prices.

Costa Rica Beer Factory

Although CRBF is a brewery first and foremost, they aren’t a slouch in the food department. Start your meal with a flight of eight samples and a plate of loaded nachos. Once you find your favorite—mine was the Cerveza de Jengibre (ginger beer)—get a pint of it with Sartén Escopeta, or chipotle-marinated tenderloin served over a bed of potatoes, spicy corn, and mozzarella cheese.


Where to Drink

Cervecería Calle Cimarona

If you’re in the mood for artisanal beers (and let’s be honest—who isn’t?), head to this cozy brewery right smack in the middle of the city. It’s inside Edificio Steinvorth, a commercial center that hosts bands most evenings.

Bar La Bohemia

Cacique is a neutral-flavored liquor made from sugar cane and is a mainstay at most bars in the city. Drunk as a shot or more commonly, mixed with fruit juices or Coca-Cola, it’s a great reminder of the Pura Vida lifestyle that Costa Rica lives and breathes.

An equal institution in San José, Bar La Bohemia has the charm of a watering hole that everybody heads to at the end of a work day, or where friends catch up while listening to a live band. It’s one of the oldest cantinas in the city, and while the decor may feel a bit run-down, it is a destination overwhelming with charm. Be prepared to order in Spanish, though.


What To See and Do

Mercado Central San José

One of Costa Rica’s oldest landmarks (it dates back to 1880!) is an easy stroll while you’re in the capital. Wander around the numerous stalls and snack on local fruits and produce, or grab a bite from one of the sodas (small and cozy open-air restaurants) if you’re feeling peckish. Note that the coffees sold here are probably not of the quality that the country is known for—they’re usually meh beans with pretty packaging.

National Museum of Costa Rica

The oldest museum in the country is a must-visit for every first-time visitor to Costa Rica. It traces its history, from before the Spanish conquest to contemporary times. Your ticket also includes access to the adjacent butterfly sanctuary.

National Theater of Costa Rica

This beautiful theater was the home to national and international performances in the capital. Guided tours of this arresting building take place everyday by the hour, from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Metropolitan Cathedral

National Monument

Perhaps the one thing you shouldn’t miss on a trip to San José is to see the Parqué Nacional, with the National Monument at its center. The bronze statue depicts five women—symbolizing Costa Rica, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Guatemala, and Honduras—metaphorically kicking the asses of two men, the Filibusters.


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