Whenever I travel, I make it a point to go for at least one banging dinner—whether it’s a fancy buffet, an experiential meal (blindfolded, drive-thru movie theater with fancy concession food, that sort), or a multi-course tasting menu. Hoja Restaurante falls between an experience and a tasting: Their offerings change monthly, seating is limited, and each course is a delight.
¡Una Gran Bienvenida!
Uruguay was the first stop in my monthlong trip to South America. Although I landed in Buenos Aires’s EZE airport, I schlepped my luggage to the city’s port, to board a four-hour ferry-and-bus ride to Montevideo.
Making recommendations is strongly recommended, because the restaurant only has several tables. (I counted at least six when I was there, although there might be a few more at the back…don’t quote me.) You can message them on their WhatsApp number or call if you have an Uruguayan phone.
My hotel was located at the Rambla, and Hoja was only a few minutes by foot. It was South American winter when I was there, so the walk was both pleasant and comfortable. When I arrived, I was the only patron, but then I was told that Uruguayans eat dinner much later than North Americans: A weeknight dinner usually happens around 9:00 p.m., and a 10:00 or even 11:00 p.m. reservation during the weekends is not unheard of.
Unsurprisingly, as I was wrapping up my meal, that was when new diners started rolling in.
The front-of-house, Dahiana (who was very gracious with my Spanish), welcomed me to the restaurant and explained the restaurant’s philosophy: Every diner is taken on a sensory journey through flavors and aromas.
Time to Feast
I made it easy on myself: I ordered the prix-fixe menu for U$1400 (about $35). (There’s a U$150 cubiertos charge as well, which I considered as cover.) You also have the option of having each course with wine, something I gladly took. Wines from this region have a well-deserved reputation for being excellent, and I couldn’t think of a better way to start my trip than indulging.
This was the amuse-bouche: A ravioli with cheese (I forgot which). It was creamy and went well with the glass of white that I got.
The starter was a vol-au-vent: Chicken pieces cooked in a cream sauce with mussels, served in a puff pastry “bowl.” In all my dinners in Belgium and France, I’ve never had the sauce with a mollusc before, but it went well. I wiped the plate clean with the bread.
My main course was locally caught anchovies. Like the starter, all I could say was yum. And although I thought that I made a mistake with requesting for a glass of red, the one that I got did not overwhelm the dish. Kudos to the chef!
Dessert was crème brûlée, the perfect end to a great dinner. That sugar shell was oh-so satisfying to crack.
My postre was paired with a limited-edition Tannat from Canelones, Uruguay. It was naturally sweet (well, sweet as far as red wines go) and was so delicious that I ordered another pour.
Every new beginning comes from some other beginning’s end
Unfortunately, as I sat down to write this story, just three weeks after visiting the restaurant, Hoja announced that they are looking for somebody to continue the restaurant’s story. I am not sure whether the restaurant remains in operation while this shift is happening; if it is, I highly recommend that you book.
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